i don't know too much about them, but from what i see why bother with half of the warranty with ul listing as being pending (maybe forever pending) for the same money that will get you a ul listed pv and a better warranty?

Your correct. No brainer.
I spoke with Morningstar today to clear up a couple of questions. Person I spoke with was very pleasant, patient and helpful.
Gues I just need to get all the components in one place for install.
Any suggestions for type and source for wire. Panel to controler and controler to Batt. Something called "Ships cable" was suggested to me. I havn't a clue as to what that is, and cannot find anything when doing a search.

there's many sources of wire and ultimately you'll probably pick a place that has the best price, but availability could come into play too. if you have building supply stores or hardware stores near you that could be a start, but if no luck try to find a local electrician and ask him the best place to buy around you. to give you a clue as to what gauge of copper wire you may need you can check out the voltage drop calculator on the northern arizona wind & sun forum. http://www.wind-sun.com/ForumVB/showthread.php?t=29 be sure to start at the beginning and read it through, but in general it is an excel type spreadsheet and any similar type of excel program will work. i use open office and that's free. i would say try to use armoured wire if you can so you or any critters don't go through the insulation and accidentally short things. sometimes multistranded wire can be used where a great deal of movement is expected for the wire making it easier to handle and less likely to break from flexing, but if too big in diameter of a wire, it can get difficult to make connections with it.

For low voltage wiring, and not too high of current, the 12V landscape (malibu) lighting wire is handy, box stores have jumbo spools of it, extra tough insulation for the garden...

sorry mike as the application he has in mind is for an rv and not a garden. it could still give another idea of where to look for wire though.

Thanks guys,
I was thinking that multistrand would be the obvious choice over solid. Something I don't know here?
Copper of course. I was going to try to use the heaviest gauge that is managable.
If things go as planned I should have about an 8 foot run from panel to CC. And about 2 feet from CC to Batteries.
Makes me think. Fuse in the Pos. line from CC to Batt? What size and type?
One panel to start (100W). Will add another 100W later with about a 4 foot run wired in series.

take the isc x1.5 and round up the the nearest common value. 4.88x1.5=7.32 round up to 10a. any standard type fuses will do, just be sure they aren't slo-blow or fast blow types. either #12 or #10 will work just fine. #12 will have about voltage drop percentage of 1.4% and #10 about .88% for the specified lengths of wire runs. #12 stranded is very common for speakers too, but be carefull if the polarities aren't marked on the wire that you don't get the polarity wrong in making your connections.

I'd think it's better then speaker cable. Low voltage landscape wire has a really tough insulation, and it's made for long strings of incandescent bulbs, gauge for gauge, it's likely much better than PVC speaker wire, that gets sticky and oozes after a couple of years. Common sizes are 16, 14, 12, 10 ga.

But then there is the "Premium" speaker wire, with 25,000 psi-pre-attached gold plate lugs, and 14/200 single crystal, oxygen free copper strands, at $18 per inch. Made my iPod sound so much better... (but my earphones keep sliding down now)